Yup! I use it for that A LOT. One gallon with the hardener (I use the 'fast', which gives a working time between 5 and 10 minutes in my experience) costs like $125-ish, but if you compare the volume with the same amount of the 'cheap stuff' at Lowes, West is a bargain price-wise, like half the cost per mL. A gallon lasts a long time, too, lots of boats plus other household uses. It lasts like a year in my shop, and that's with people coming over and working on their boats with my epoxy, too. Definitely a bargain at the price. Make sure to get the measuring pumps; they screw right on to the cans of epoxy and hardener, and measure it for you... one pump of hardener per one pump of epoxy. Hard to go wrong...
Well I got the ribs all cut out, now I just need to file the stringer cutouts and Keel cutouts so that everything fits nicely. Sanding is also needed. I'll add pictures when it starts to take shape.
I built a couple of sea-kayaks using Raka epoxy. Worked great and is cheaper than West. http://www.raka.com/
Ok, so I have all of the ribs cut out along with the bow and stern keel sections. All of the sanding is done as well. My question is, do I just need to figure the length of the 1/4" X 1/4" Keel piece by gluing on the either the bow or the stern keel section, and then make the keel long enough to get the overall length to 43 1/2" inches, or does anyone know how long it should be off the top of your head? I have a 1" length of overlap at both the bow and the stern keels over the main keel. Thanks for all the help and the tips. Cheers
If possible, pictures would be awesome. It just adds so much more to a build when you can actually see the ship. Beaver
Before I start marking for the sub deck, I think some of the ribs are too tall, mostly rib 19. You can see rib 19 here holding up the whole works. Any Tips?
Have you checked to make sure your slots in your keel are deep enough? That might be your problem. Looking good though. Beaver
Ok, I have another question. Since I made the mistake of gluing all of my ribs to the keel before posting pictures for help, is there another way to rectify the bow ribs not going all the down to the bottom of the keel? Maybe when filling in between the ribs and fiber glassing or something? My goal for this weekend is to get the sub deck finished and attached. thanks for the help guys. Cheers
Well, the problem with cutting them out is that I don't have enough spare 1/4" Ply, because I live in a blighted village with no good hobby store within two hours drive. Could I sand the keel down to match the rib, or would that be too out of spec? Here is a closer shot at my bow area: Sorry it's a little blurry.
Sand the ribs to match the keel. The problem is the V between the ribs on the inside will act as a water compartment to slow flooding. You need to sand or file the middle of the ribs down to the keel.
Opening the ribs up for water to flow out of the bow can wait until the hull is stronger... like after the solid area is put in and glassed.
Another question, continuing from where I'm at, the next step is the sub deck, followed by making the impenetrable areas. For making the impenetrable ares, does the duct tape and Great Stuff foam work? With the duct tape on the inside? Cheers
I doubt it. More likely to move or break the ribs. It expands a lot also. It d be easier to just use pink/blue foam.
