Ok. Would the foam be glued in place with some super glue, and then cut down with a razor knife or something similar?
I'm not sure if ca glue will melt it or not. Last time I used e6000 to attach the precut pieces, then I sanded them to shape with a mouse sander
I have cut out the forward section of the sub deck, but still need to glue if in place. Next is the stern section and then I will try to post some pictures later this week.
My stern Ribs are a little off. Any tips or do I need to restart the stern section ? Also got the front portion of the subdeck gled in place. Not too shabby I think.
Have you glued that back section on yet? I notice the last two stern ribs are angled forward when they should probably be straight. Hopefully you haven't glued them yet and you can just straighten them out and make them level with the other two. That being said, always do a dry fit check first to make sure everything lines up & is even/level/straight. Very Very important.
It looks like it's been glued on. It also looks like you used Titebond III to glue the ribs on. I've done some experimenting with it, and water weakens the joint just enough that you can break the bond. If you put water around the joint and leave it for an hour or so, you might be able to pop the ribs off the keel and re-glue them. Hope this helps,
That last rib looks like it just needs to be adjusted to be straight up but the second to last looks like it may be a bit short.
They have indeed been glued on with Titebond III. There is supposed to be a step in the deck, and I was wondering if the ribs may be too tall? The stern keel is almost as tall as the subdeck on the front. Thanks for the help guys.
It's not the ribs, it's the keel piece doesn't hold up the 2nd to last rib high enough. A new stern keel with that corrected should do the job. I like the bow section
This is the corrected rib in these pictures. It is not glued on, but it is not notched either to slide over the keel piece. Will one rib not interlocked cause a serious problem? I tried to get around rebuilding the whole keel. I also trimmed down the stern keel piece to match where the stern subdeck's height should be. I don't have measurements, but I think it is looking better than before.
Well... one rib 1/4" too high will have all the outside corners 1/4" too high, so the stringer will look ALL wrong in that area. Sometimes the least time-wasting move is to replace the whole part.
This is where it stands as of last night. Tug, for some reason I had to read your post about 15 times for it to sink in. The starboard stringer matches up pretty well, while the port stringer is a little low (about 1/8" or so). Part of the trouble was that my stern keel ran too high, and threw me for a loop when I first tried to do the stern subdeck. Below is the stbd stringer. The black line is where the stringer will go on the second rib. Thanks for all your patients and help guys. Cheers
This weekend I got the stern stringer notches sorted out and aligned, along with the bow and stern hard areas glued to the keels. I will sand them into a rough shape tonigh and post pics tomorrow.
Does anyone know how well Thompson's Water Seal in a spray can works for waterproofing a hull? I thought it might be worth a try.
It would probably be okay for something that was not structural, ie decks or superstructure, but Hovey is right about not using it for the hull.
Thanks guys. When using epoxy, are there any preferred methods for applying it to the hull, of do you just kind of paint it on?
I paint it on, and make sure that I get everywhere. Usually do one good coat, then follow up after that's cured, to get any areas that I missed. Sometimes takes three tries, but it better than having a ship rot
