War Combat How to get started?

Discussion in 'General' started by darticus, Nov 26, 2007.

  1. specialist

    specialist Active Member

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    If you are carefull with you cannon setup and make sure your barrels don't get dammaged. You can do pretty good shooting from up to about 30 feet with stern guns.
    15 feeet is better, as the scatter of the shot is less.

    A cruiser can be setup to play close, however it is risky, and requires fitting battleship type stuff into a cruiser.

    Side mounts just don't have the accuracy at range due to the ship rolling. So are best used to close fighting where they can achive critial hits with below water hits.
    Note also that bbs skip if the impact the water at less then ~5 degrees. This means that it is difficult to get below water line hits with stern guns, and if you want below hits sidemounts are more effective.
     
  2. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Ordered my ship. Got a Colorado which I think is a USS Maryland. I hope to get started right after Christmas(Have to wait for Santa(HE'S GOT THE FREAKIN' SHIP). I will need a receiver and servos for my DX7 Spektrum to use this radio. Some say you can use the DX7 for all types of RC. Planes, Boats, Cars, because its Spektrum, Is this true? Should I buy another radio of 6 channels just for the ships?
     
  3. donanton

    donanton Member

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    What a coincidence, santa has my washington.
     
  4. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Your from NJ also right? Santa's got NJ covered. I want to get on with the work. I'll probably cut my self when I get it trying to start working fast. Settle down kids Christmas will be here soon! Ron
     
  5. donanton

    donanton Member

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    Yeah, nj should have a good showing this coming spring. Maybe have a nj vs everyone else battle once rob's pond thaws.
     
  6. darticus

    darticus Member

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    I'm hoping that Santa brings me a tank and the Colorado. I've been good. Word is out Santa was seen putting a drill press with the initials CK on it and two ships and a tank in his sleigh. One ship I know was a Washington for Donanton( Don't tell him). Ron
     
  7. donanton

    donanton Member

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    I wont tell him.
     
  8. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Big box outside from Rick at BC. Wife grabbed it! Wife took it! Now the SANTA wait. Ron
     
  9. donanton

    donanton Member

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    I wonder what the box could be!
     
  10. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Ready to build my USS Maryland. Don't know where to mount the sub and main deck. It does say to mount them first before cutting windows. The sub deck, I think, should be epoxied in place. Where? The directions don't say. The main deck, I don't think, should be epoxied as you'll never get it off again. Marking windows another question. Should there be two levels? Top and bottom windows? Suggestions needed. Thanks Ron
     
  11. Ragresen

    Ragresen Member

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    Ok. The Sub deck can be mounted after the windows are cut. It would be a shame to have the subdeck cut while cutting out your windows. Epoxy the Subdeck completely on all sides before installing it into place. a Bit of CA glue will get the deck started and then epoxy it the rest of the way in. The main deck will then be screwed to the sub deck or latched in by any creative means. It would not hurt to cut a perimeter of the main deck and seal it into place the have speed latches set to make removing the deck fathers to get to your ships insides as sometimes electrical fire can occur by off chances.

    As for the windows it depends on the club you are playing with. I know MWC permits the addition of an Armor belt to split your windows if the ship had a real armor belt. The belt on the MWC ship is just the split that you may see on some giving it a multilevel look. The Maryland can be a nice ship. I know Rick of BC uses his to very good effect.
     
  12. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Thanks for that info. I'll mount the sub deck after the windows are cut. The sub deck is mounted just low enough so the main deck is below the sides or even with the sides. Now I have to draw out where windows get cut. Thanks Ron
     
  13. Ragresen

    Ragresen Member

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    Good Luck with her Ron. I hope you enjoy her. I know I have enjoyed my ship and she still not even done.
     
  14. darticus

    darticus Member

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    Did we ever say how low the sub deck should be? Should it be low enough that the main deck lines up with the side edges of hull? Shoiuld the main deck be over hull sides? Thanks Ron
     
  15. Ragresen

    Ragresen Member

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    I did mine and most seem to do thiers so the main deck is flush with the sides of the hull.
     
  16. Superarp

    Superarp Member

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    Waitaminute...........are you building a maryland? I am and am building a wooden hull. I feel in over my head! SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!
     
  17. Superarp

    Superarp Member

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    Waitaminute...........are you building a maryland? I am and am building a wooden hull. I feel in over my head! SOMEONE HELP ME!!!!
     
  18. warspiteIRC

    warspiteIRC RIP

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    1. main deck even with outside of hull is easier but inside is better because it doesn't get beat up with bb's around the outside.

    2. Wooden hull - what is your questions. Just copy the ribs onto paper glue to wood and cut out. Solid bow and stern in two pieces around the central keel. The keel can be built in two sections (forward and Aft) and joined with two stringers. I use two keels through the center of the boat to set up the water channel. Fill in the outer sections with foam or balsa. Put on the subdeck and you are up to where the fiberglass boat is.

    Marty
     
  19. warspiteIRC

    warspiteIRC RIP

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    Oh by the way, i always mount the sub deck BEFORE cutting windows. I also mount most of everything else and pond or swimming pool test before the windows are cut.