Water test tank

Discussion in 'General' started by Lou, Jan 4, 2013.

  1. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    Johnny, the tubes are made of cardboard, they are made as molds for pouring concrete pillars.

    something like this ( http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100669878/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=sonotube&storeId=10051#.UOyhOXf6pe8 )

    Bleach aka (chlorine) is what I put in my test tank every now and again, nothing ever really grew in it. (A lot of critters did die in it, so I guess having some sort of cover would be advisable too.)
     
  2. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Cardboard is your friend. This is something that everyone can do with a few pictures to help the process. I will post mine when I finish it this weekend. This one will have a lid (I have animals and small children that will magically be drawn to it) but still be light enough to transport.
    Built in drain and moveable side support for putting ships on the side while making adjustments. Paint and appropriate graphics for the side, have to represent!
     
  3. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    Awesome, I'm super excited to see pictures and hear how it actually works out for you!
     
  4. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Change of plans, decided to make a box that will fit a Yamato so the portability of the tank was not feasible. It can still be moved, but as you will see it will take more time than it is worth.
    Decided to cut the tube in fourths so I could get the maximum width. Rebuilt my table so that the box with lid on it will be the original height.
    Made a series of braces to hold the tube, spray foam was used between each brace.
    [​IMG]
    Overall view of the box prior to installing the tube.
    [​IMG]
    Tube is installed and you can see the spray foam. Next step is to glass the box.
    [​IMG]
     
  5. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    I was going to get all excited about it... but BUTT JOINTS!!!???? BUTT JOINTS!!!??!?!?!?!11!!@@$

    :) Nice looking float basin, Lou :)

    Even with my pool, there are times I'd rather have a little basin. Maybe something similar, but busting out the dovetail jig for old-school cool.
     
  6. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Don't get distracted by making the box "pretty", this is taking away from the boat building enough as it is. Save the dove tail for a transport boat box (and old school would mean no template and router, cut those bad boys by hand please. :)
     
  7. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    Heh. I love hand-cut dovetails, but I've cheated on a large number of boxes lately, cutting finger joints on the saw. Not touching the dovetail jig (still in the box, aye) until after I get Scharnie ready for battle; Brian is scheduling one for late February if you can grace humble Statesboro with your presence :)
     
  8. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    I wanted to make something but this thread inspired me to fix a problem I have had with water testing and water-lining ships ... so I just went and got one.

    I got the bunk feeder with a frame and so far it looks great. Fairly light-weight and I can store it outdoors if I want to.

    Here is a link to the pics with a Bismarck inside:

    https://picasaweb.google.com/114320197305190254420/BunkFeederForShipFloating?authuser=0&feat=directlink

    I cant add a link it just freezes up every time. If anyone else can.. feel free. Thanks
     
  9. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Water test tank is done except for the drain. Tried to stay with the ship theme when painting, now all I need are draft markings. After rebuilding my workshop table, this tank can be removed and used outside or taken to another house for a build session. This one will fit even the mighty Yamato, so I should be good to go. Now just need to install the top using a piano hinge so I can have a workbench when not water testing.
    What I would do differently: Find a place that has the 16" tubes (local stores only had 12"). I would then glass both sides with 3-4 layers of cloth after cutting it in half. Attach this to a baseboard the same width and use wood supports underneath (like I did) and glass the ends of the tube. This will be lightweight and easy to store.
    After you add it all up, I would suggest going with the bunk feeder if you can transport a 10' container from the store to your house. At 100-150, this is probably the most economical choice, but not custom so you get what you get.
    [​IMG]
     
  10. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    Somebody suggested I use a rubber stopper in the holes on the Bunk feeder.. THANKS.. it worked great. In fact if you use one you will want to add a hole in each corner as well for fast draining. A 7/16 hole is a slow drain.
     
  11. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    Well I finally got to use my tank. I put the Baden in and tested 3 Mtroniks esc's that DIDNT WORK at the Brouhaha but now magically did. I like the bunk feeders as I can ram into the ends without damaging the boat or the tank. I had room to turn a little side to side and I just ran it back and forth throwing it in forward then slamming into reverse. So far the Esc's want to work.. I am sure right up until the countdown on Saturday morning at the next battle...
     
  12. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    The ESCs work fine now because the boat is at home and testing, vice in the pond for battle. Everything works better on the bench :)
     
  13. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    Yes.. Gerald and I both had Mtroniks that would work in reverse but not in forward.. I did have a 'bad frame' so I think perhaps they were stuck in failsafe.. but that is a whole other thread.

    Point is.. since my boat is 4ft long I can drive back and forth and do some pump and drive testing.. .no speed test yet.. my buddy suggested we drive it to the end then take it out and flip it real quick and do that 10 times... I think buying 9 more bunk feeders will do it...... maybe put a ramp between them and let the boat jump like the scene in James Bond from Live and Let Die??....
     
  14. SnipeHunter

    SnipeHunter Well-Known Member

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    I have a 1ft long speed trap that would work on a bunk feeder, assuming you can get to full speed in 5 ft.
     
  15. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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  16. wrenow

    wrenow RIP

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    And here I was just using a galvanized 6' x 1' oval water trough from the local feed store... Got it mainly to set up on sawhorses at the home or at shows.

    I wasn't sure the feed troughs would hold up to the weight of the water, and some had lots o holes in the bottom. I am glad to see they work. I did look on Amazon, where they are pricey (about 3 times what I paid for my watering trough, though I haven't checked the feed store)

    A couple of the bigger ships don't fit but 90% of my fleet does. Of course, at NABGO we have both a custom welded ballasting tank (waist high) at the lake and a fountain at the conference center so plenty of places to check things out near the bench or near the pond.
    Just occurred to me that a really good idea to ponder might be a folding one (like the folding boats). Then when not in use, fold the ends and sides in and put it away. If you could fold it in the middle, too, it would be great for travel.

    Another idea. NeverWet is now out at Home Depot. Have a custom case built a bit oversized for your ship for about $99
    by
    http://www.roadcasesusa.com/?gclid=...7Aod8yUAhA
    , Amp or Head style (big box that lifts off tray with ship), epoxy and neverWet the inside of the top, and the top becomes both a stand for your ship if needed or a ballasting tank if needed.

    Cheers,
     
  17. wrenow

    wrenow RIP

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    Just made a call: for a Musashi sized case, made out of 1/2" ply and covered, etc. 'twill be more like $300-400 from Roadcasesusa.
    They do have some heavy duty lighting cases (bare wood) that are plenty big enough for smaller ships in the 5' range in the $179 range. Like this one: http://www.roadcasesusa.com/truss-r...arge-size/ 60" long inside and 10 7/8" wide, you might be able to put a slightly longer ship in.
    They will trick the cases out with carpet liners, wheels, etc. (for a price, of course).
    But, for a ballasting tank, probably not the best idea.
    Cheers,
     
  18. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

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    Holes were no problem, in fact I drilled more.. and made them larger. Even at 3/8 ( I forgot for sure) it takes a very long time to drain with 3 holes. I used rubber stoppers and they do NOT leak. The stoppers are tapered so I can make most any size hole I want.
    I wanted one with a frame and when I found out that the cows typically STAND with 2 hoofs in the feeder.. I didn't worry. I only have plastic saw horses and they broke under the weight of sheet rock once so I don't trust those anymore. At least with the frame it can stand on its own anywhere and I can move it around.. and its a bit higher.
    I may still raise it on blocks to ease up on the back and reduce bending over but for now its fine.
    I move it from place to place in the yard so that when I drain it .. the water goes to an area that needs it.
    As far as big ships @ 10ft it can handle anything fast gun has.And the price was right 130 bucks.
     
  19. CURT

    CURT Well-Known Member

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    That's a great test tank. Just big enough to conduct a sink and see how it handles in sinking condition too.
     
  20. Jonhanze01

    Jonhanze01 Member

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    Have you tried acrylic sheets, a 4' x 8' sheet can make a huge take, its see through and easy to use. Cost for a sheet at http://acrylicparts.com/acrylicprice.html is as follows:

    48" x 96" clear acrylic sheets:

    (1) .0625" 1/16" $48.00 (extruded )
    (1) .125" 1/8" $67.20 (extruded )
    (1) .187" 3/16" $99.20 (extruded )
    (1) .250" 1/4" $131.20 (cast or extruded )
    (1) .375" 3/8" $192.00 (cast or extruded )
    (1) .500" 1/2" $240.00 (cast or extruded )

    Braces can be made out of 1x3" strapping, and a drain plug installed. Would recommend sealing the insde of course, Overall you can have a 8' long tank up to 2' high on the sides. Should be big enough for most ships. Basically a plastic rectangle inside a wooden strapping frame. The extra plastic can be used for handles or whatever you want.

    My boats are all small enough to fit in the tub but I hope this thought helps. Afterthought...When emptied and dried out it can be used for storage or lined with foam to transport your boats.