Waterproofing

Discussion in 'Construction' started by captainponderous, Dec 22, 2015.

  1. captainponderous

    captainponderous New Member

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    Hey there. My sons and I are poised for combat. Got some quality cannons from Stephen Morget. But now I need the most reliable method of ensuring my ship still works after a sink. Can I get some pointers? I'll read around as well, but there's a lot of personal opinions out there.
     
  2. ish311

    ish311 Active Member

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    scotch cote on everything electronic or pot in epoxy. you want to keep the corrosion from forming a bridge between circuits. pre waterproofed servo's are simpler than the ones you can buy as well.
     
  3. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Scotchkote is great stuff. Properly applied to anything that doesn't need to move it'll do a great job.

    Plan to buy and bring spare servos with you.

    Motors don't really care about being the water so long as you lubricate any bearings they have and make sure the motors get drained out and possibly sprayed out with a electrical contact cleaner spray.

    Regularly inspect wiring and connectors for signs of corrsion

    Make sure all wood is sealed so your ship doesn't rot apart on you.
     
  4. mike5334

    mike5334 Well-Known Member

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    Do not use liquid tape, liquid rubber, contact cement, etc. Eventually they will pull away from the surface they are protecting and start trapping moisture in between. Scotchkote does not do this and works very well for waterproofing.
     
  5. Prussian

    Prussian Member

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    I like MG Electronics "Acrylic Conformal Coating". You brush it on and it dries in about an hour. It's clear so you can see what ever you water proof. I use it on my receiver board & firing boards. No need for a water box. Use it to seal just about everything.
     
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  6. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    That's what you used on the stuff in my new Scharnhorst rite? Just curious, did you do the pump board? It's admittedly very hard to tell, lol.
     
  7. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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  8. bgt0990

    bgt0990 Active Member

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    What is the difference between the Acrylic and the Silicone coatings? The silicone is a bit more expensive. Can you remove the coating if you need to re-solder something?
    Barry
     
  9. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    To add to your confusion even more, another product you can coat electronics with is E600o adhesive. Dries crystal clear and available at most hardware and craft stores.

    [​IMG]

    Board coated in E6000
    [​IMG]
     
  10. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    Hydro-Phobic coatings and why is my boat smoking?

    Has anyone tried any hydro-phobic coatings on electronic wiring?

    I know we use Scotch Kote and E6000 and West System and the like, they are good at keeping water from penetrating. But these items do nothing at preventing water from attaching.

    I have been trying a product and it seems to have potential:

    Rustolium Never Wet clear, it is a two part paint application by spray. Several coats of both parts are needed and this stuff is very VOC (smells real bad, not wife friendly). But after dealing with the smell the result is wire and parts that shed water "like a Ducks back", connectors still need "Nolox" or Corrosion X but after the harness is sprayed truly water repellent.

    Just thought I would share,
     
  11. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Hrm, interesting.
    This the stuff?
     
  12. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    Yup that stuff, kind of pricy but I think worth it.
     
  13. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    What are you guys doing with 2.4 rx that have a bind button like Futaba?
     
  14. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    Using E600o, I build up a layer of adhesive around the pushbutton flush to the top edge. Once that's dry, I lay on a little circle of Saran wrap over the button. The Saran wrap sticks to the cured E6000 like glue. I then coat the Saran wrap with more E6000 making sure it extends past the Saran wrap. You now have a waterproof button.
     
  15. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    OK, that may be an option. Otherwise I will have to do a small watertight box.
     
  16. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    if you're handy with the soldering iron you could probably solder on a pair of leads from the bind button to a pair of jumper pins and use that to bind rather than the button.
     
  17. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    I could do that. I just don't want to ruin an $89 rx. I will do it with the frsky one I have and box the Futaba one.
     
  18. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    I feel the same way, that's why I got a couple OrangeRX 7ch receivers so I didn't have to use the futaba one.
     
  19. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    The frsky ones are available from Value hobby for $25 they work great.
     
  20. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    To bad they don't ship outside of the US. At least some of the Hong Kong stores have em, I'll have to try one.