and it was just that the rtv had an air pocket and not fully set yet! tonight i shall run a calibration print!
ezstruder stepper won't move at all..... waiting for my account to unlock with seemecnc so i can get help there. wires have continuity just nothing...
Some types of RTV are rated good upwards of 500F. Thermosets like RTV and epoxy can often handle much higher temperatures without degradation post cure than thermoplastics such as ABS.
However I always used never-seize to make up for a loose fit on heater cartridges. It transfers the heat way better than an air gap or plastic. It gets a bit messy though. A cap full of never-seize is enough to paint your car copper.
I'm not saying it can't handle it, I just don't like extra layers messing with heat transfer. Hadn't thought of trying never-seize, but my experience is limited (since Navy life anyway) to a few 3D printers, and the heater elements have been a nice, tight, fit, and after a few heating/cooling cycles are the devil to get out. Which is good
it uses a resistor not a heater block for heat and they are super loose in this head. im going to replace it with an e3d after i get this one working well enough to print the supports for the e3d.
it lives!!! started the fan for the cooler so i can get that installed and actually get the printer fully calibrated when i'm not worried about skating the fine line between melting the hot end off and working. seems to be working wonderfully and should be done in about an hour. now i need to find the models for the poppit holders so i can print them when i am done calibrating to make the kongo build go smoother.
It'll probably be tomorrow; I'm running late to work now, and have to leave early from work to make a classical guitar recital (listening, not playing, I'm not that good), and will get home around bedtime.
well i'm going to have to order some more filament. started a large project 3 18 hour prints and am on print 2 of three and have about half a spool left but it's pretty cool. will post a picture of the print after the second large half finishes. and question. does the pro filament from matterhackers look that much better than the regular? or does it have better adhesion?
i've got some pro that they had on sale so it might get put in the printer and get some demo parts made once I resolve my issue with goop. might be a retract issue as i've got the drooling to stop finally.
195 on first layer to prevent warping then drop to 190 to keep the drool down. retract is 5.4mm and speed is 110mms biggest issue im having now is when the thing just pauses and melts a puddle where it pauses for about half a second.
pla right now. was having issues getting the bed to level and stay level until the belts broke in. now they actually stay zeroed. and i think it's the slicer that pauses. does it around complex curves the most.
printed in three sections but could have done it in two. looked nice until i dropped it on the floor and broke off the fins. found 2 but no clue where no3 got to.
