wiring runs built into hull?

Discussion in 'Electrical & Radio' started by Anvil_x, Jun 24, 2018.

  1. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,545
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    Howdy,

    So, I'm a bit of a neat freak when it comes to wiring, and have all of my wiring in my wood hull boat running up under the subdeck in these screw-clamp runs with hose covering holding them in check. it works, but I still don't like it. it's still too messy for me, and I hate bumping my drivewires every time I put the batteries in, even though they're covered.

    I'm thinking of, during major refit this winter, removing all the wiring, and digging up some of my ballast to run wiring trenches to either side of my water channel. once I have done that, I intend to install bus terminals throughout the boat with XT plugs coming out in locations near to the application they drive. On the other end, I would have a main bus where all of the control plugs would come out right next to my board, receiver, ESC, etc.

    From what I have looked at in my particular hull, I would have enough flexibility to change the gun layout if I wanted to at a later date.
    With regard to covering the wiring trench, I would use 5/16 balsa with a light coat of epoxy to make a sealed semi-permanent top plate, such that the top would be level with the rest of the floor of the boat, yet removable (with effort and a good knife, obviously) in the event that a terminal fails, or maintenance must be conducted.

    What do you guys think? Has anyone done such a thing before?

    Minor faults, shorts, etc are part of development, so presume that the system in discussion would have months of trial, error, and correction behind it before deployment. in other words, presume an "ideal" system.
     
  2. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2008
    Posts:
    1,576
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    Its been done before that's for sure. My thought is .. when/if you replace the wiring that is embedded in the hull .. what do you do? Major refit.. dig up the water channel.. or run the wires in the open above the water channel which defeats the purpose of hiding the wires in the first place.

    I have not only replaced wires due to corrosion in my ship over 8 years but changed the way I wired the ship multiple times and with embedded wiring.. you have to either dig up the bottom of the hull or lay the wires on top of the water channel.. save time and just leave them above. You can bundle them with spiral wrap (but makes it hard to make changes at a battle) or just use zip ties to make a nice neat bundle.
     
  3. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,545
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    They would be in their own trenches to either flank of the water channel, with a 5/16 balsa top sheet that'd be relatively easy to unseal if the need arose. Or, with a top sheet that is retained using friction, or screws.
    On my boat, I'm not seeing any possibility in which the water channel would be widened. Lengthened, yes, but if you have a channel dialled in, with the two pump bulge already installed in the back end (Something I am seriously considering doing), it wouldn't need major revision. Besides, if you really wanted to widen the channel, the trenches to either side would facilitate such action, as they would already be framed out in a similar manner, such that widening would only require removing the intervening keels.

    Alternately, the trenches could be placed along the outer hull, particularly in a fiberglass model, if water channel widening were needed and the original trenches needed to go.
     
  4. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,545
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    good point on corroded wires though, I hadn't thought of that. Perhaps that could be avoided?
    Another thought, if corrosion is an issue, pot the lines in epoxy in a mold, and have them as modular units that just drop into the hull slots made for them. maybe get some molds of the channels, use them to make negatives, then use those negatives for casting. I imagine that method would be a lot of time/work, but this is a thought experiment, so the heck with it.
     
  5. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2007
    Posts:
    1,756
    My Duke's wiring was all embedded under the concrete leveler, used it for many years, if you do it right you should not get corroded wires.

    The fellow up in Minnesota has it now.
     
  6. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2008
    Posts:
    1,164
    Location:
    Mongo
    On real ships the wire runs on the overhead, like my toys.
    Keep it out of the slop if you can.
     
    NickMyers and Anvil_x like this.
  7. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,674
    Location:
    Central PA
    If anything, use solid house wire instead of stranded wire to keep corrosion to a minimum.
     
  8. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,545
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    Oh Yeah, Matt's Duke was on my team last month. I'll have to take a closer look at his boat next time
     
  9. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2008
    Posts:
    1,164
    Location:
    Mongo
    Use noodle wire and let The Beave use house wire.
     
    NickMyers and Kevin P. like this.
  10. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,545
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    I do like how you rigged that Nassau. it gave me the idea. but running on the bottom is the only way I could do it with my Texas since the deck isn't continuous.

    So. How about running the wiring along the subdeck rim, but with more compact clamps terminating at Bus terminals suspended from above? that would seem to solve access, a lot of the corrosion, and still make a cleaner wiring run.
     
  11. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,674
    Location:
    Central PA
    Don't you like the idea, Carl?
     
  12. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    Posts:
    4,404
    Location:
    Federal Way, WA
    I like that idea on the other team.
     
    Anvil_x likes this.
  13. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2007
    Posts:
    1,756
    I think all the Allies should wire their boats that way. :rolleyes:
     
  14. Beaver

    Beaver 2020 Rookie of the Year Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Apr 12, 2013
    Posts:
    3,674
    Location:
    Central PA
    Ok, so want am I missing? I'd like to know why rather than just know it's a bad idea.
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2018
  15. Lou

    Lou It's just toy boats -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2008
    Posts:
    2,092
    Location:
    Smyrna, Georgia
    Been there, done that with hiding the wire. Just not worth it as if there is any issue, you have to tear it up to see if the wire is the issue or the component. The ship can look pretty, but if it cannot get or stay in the battle then it is no good to the team (or the captain).

    Put the wire up high in the boat (use wire clips) and zip tie if you want it to be a little cleaner. Wire in water can lead to corrosion, up high it is only affected by the pump spray (bleed hole) or when it sinks. In a trench the wire is always in water, until you get back to the hotel and dry it out.
     
    Anvil_x likes this.
  16. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2008
    Posts:
    1,164
    Location:
    Mongo
    Too stiff, and hard to work. You only use about 3 feet at the most, why make it hard on yourself. Noodle wire also carries more current than solid .
     
    Last edited: Jun 24, 2018
  17. jadfer

    jadfer Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2008
    Posts:
    1,576
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    The corrosion I had was solid wire or the cheaper hardware store wire for which the jacket is not molded to conform to the conductors like it does with Silicone wire (although I did have some that let the wires slide inside the silicone jacket before..). Since the jacket does not conform there is no amount of protection or method that will prevent water entering .. water finds a way.

    I have not had noodle wire corrode ever.. I have changed my mind on the type/gauge of wires in my ship a few times but it has always worked. Most of us arrived at the 'perfect wiring' after many tries and most still do things a bit different each time.
     
  18. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2017
    Posts:
    1,545
    Location:
    Athens, GA
    ah. that brings up a good question. what gauges of noodle wire are you using where? what determines gauge choice for you? I've been looking at getting some for this winter's refit, and am thinking of running 12 gauge for the motors, and 16 for guns due to amp loading. though I'd like some wiggle room with the drive motors and am considering going to 10, since the max loading for the 12 is 30 amps (per amazon).
     
  19. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2007
    Posts:
    1,756
    Way to much. ESC's that use 80 amps only come with 14 ga wire attached from the manufacture, so why would you use 10? The ratings for the wire are usually measured in 10 ft lengths. You may use 1 ft maybe. All I use is 14 ga for ESC's, motors, for drive or pumps, and 18 ga for the solenoids. Anything else is overkill, unless your name is Lou?
     
    Sethie and Kevin P. like this.
  20. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2015
    Posts:
    1,715
    Location:
    Chantilly, VA
    I second Dave's recommendation. I have used 12 for some applications but feel its overkill for typical 1-motor application, 14 will be my standard to single large loads. 18 ga for solenoids is just right, not too thin that you worry about breaking it, not too thick that it's overkill (well it still is probably overkill at 18ga, more of the size is right vs current capacity/voltage drop)
     
    Sethie likes this.