wooden hull building

Discussion in 'Construction' started by funkymonkey, Feb 18, 2013.

  1. funkymonkey

    funkymonkey Member

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    So, just need a little guidance here. found that i had more plans than i thought. Currently building the Edgar Quinett as laid out. Knew that i had the Colorado in 1/96th but turns out i also have her in 1/144th, but on a bonus found i also have the Iowa in 1/96th.
    Now, my requirment of knowledge is as such: rib spacing. The Edgar was straight forward enough. 2 1/8 on centers. i am assuming that is bare minimum spacing. Following the lines drawn in the Faired Lines plans of the other plans, the 144 scale Colorado is currently at 1.25 rib spacing, that has to be to small. If i take out every other rib that puts us at 2.5 rib spacing which is perfect right? As for the Iowa, the Faired Lines plans has 5.5 inch rib spacing. Well this mother is huge, so that shouldnt be all much a problem right? inpenatrable areas should be easy enough to fill in.
    As fo material im figuring either 3/8 or 1/2 inch ply, which ever i feel better about at the hardware store. (this is 1/96th talk) and i should be able to keep the cap rails at 1/4 ply. Figure nice double keels should be easy and help in laying out a nice water chanel.
    Any input would be greatly welcomed. think this obsession is bit me hard lol. going to have three build maybe four going on concurrently.
    -Bryan
    Edgar laying on the Iowa plans. didnt realize its like 9 feet long
    [​IMG]
     
  2. rcengr

    rcengr Vendor

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    You need to check the rules set you will be battling under in order to set the rib spacing. For fast gun, it is based on 15% of the total length. So for the 144 Colorado which is 52" long, you can fill 7.8". Assuming you have 2" hard area at the bow and 1" at the stern, then you have 4.8" left for ribs. 4.8" divided by 1/4" ribs gives you 19 ribs. Those 19 ribs evenly spaced between the bow and stern hard areas would be 2.45" apart. So in this case, 2.5" spacing is fine.
    For 1/96 Battlestations, the ribs are spaced based on the thickness of the ribs. If you are using 3/8" ribs, the spacing is 3". I generally don't like to be discouraging, but in this case I would discourage you from building a 96 scale Iowa. It is huge, not only in length but also in weight. One of our club members build a New Jersey in 96 scale - it required two people to haul it to the water and THEN they added approximately 75 pounds of ballast. It is currently a lawn ornament.
     
  3. funkymonkey

    funkymonkey Member

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    appreciate the input.
    yes, i seriously thinking about the feasability if the Iowa. but she may get built even if just for mear cool factor. and run around unarmed.
    we shall see. keep you all updated with pics and such.
     
  4. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    HUGE. Build your combat ships and be happy :)
     
  5. funkymonkey

    funkymonkey Member

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    But in Battle stations it could be my combat ship......
    its only slightly larger than the colorado.
     
  6. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    If Iowa is a ship you are truely adament about, then you will find and make ways of transporting it easily, and launching/recovering it easily as well. You just have to ask yourself if the effort is really worth it for you?

    (I have the 1/96 Missouri plans, they are f'n huge :)
     
  7. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    9 feet long? something like that?
     
  8. absolutek

    absolutek -->> C T D <<--

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    I could probably wallpaper a room with the plans. I think the plans were more like 10-12ft long, but the actual model is 9.25ft.
     
  9. funkymonkey

    funkymonkey Member

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    9.25 - 9.5 Right around there.
     
  10. Tugboat

    Tugboat Facilitator RCWC Staff Admiral (Supporter)

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    I had contemplated building Bismarck in 1/96, it's around that size... was going to have it bolt together in the middle to make transport easier. It would need a LOT of ballast, best added by building pockets into the water channeling where you could insert the ballast lakeside. But holy crap, the effort required to recover it after a sink!!
     
  11. funkymonkey

    funkymonkey Member

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    kind of what just started running through my head. would think about incorporating an inflatable balast recover system. strictly for recovery, like a pull tab hooked to co2 cartridges to slowly inflate rubber bladder to expel water and float to surface upon end of battle.

    for transport i was thinking a custom crate with removable sides and dolly style wheels, and hard points for strapping to roof rack or mini trailer i have our back.

    i just dismantled a crated pallet here at work and low and behold it is made of 3/8ths ply, i think this is a sign.
     
  12. DarrenScott

    DarrenScott -->> C T D <<--

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    No no no....use water ballast, in sealed tubes and a dedicated co2 tank to "blow" the tanks when it gets sunk.

    A seperate, switch activated High-volume bilge pump to pump her out when she surfaces ,and you are done
     
  13. funkymonkey

    funkymonkey Member

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    I like this idea. But how to implement it. Couple capped pvc tubes. Fittings on one end hooked to a low pressure dedicated 12 gram co2 blow system. Maybe the other end have basic fittings going to some 1/4 inch lines vented to the super structure that I could use as a bsllast fill port and dually blow the water ballast out to float when sunk?