WOW Roma Super

Discussion in 'Digital Design and Fabrication' started by thegeek, Feb 12, 2020.

  1. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    OK how do you get the main parts and the minor parts like AA guns to be printable files.
    Will, Greg, Brian can you share how to extract usable parts from these Zip files?

    Roma.zip

    Roma (1).zip
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Iunnrais

    Iunnrais Active Member

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    Well, For me it's been a matter of loading into Sketchup (yeah, cheesy I know) and deleting everything that isn't the part that I want. Then there is much gnashing of teeth and fiddling with the result until I get something that is solid and printable.
     
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  3. GregMcFadden

    GregMcFadden Facilitator RCWC Staff

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    Stl files are a nightmare to make watertight... I do not have a good workflow for it... In the past I used the mesh then redrew parts from scratch...
     
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  4. Xanthar

    Xanthar Active Member

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    If one is careful, some of the geometry can be re-purposed or used for reference. Curved features in WOWs models usually need to be replaced with higher resolution primitives. Most of the difficulty is in cleanly removing the things one doesn't want but, there are tricks : P

    What parts are you after?
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2020
  5. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Well-Known Member

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    @thegeek I'd have to remake the files from scratch basically. Convert mesh to brep, then start drawing from there and making my own bodies. I can do it but it won't be fast.

    @GregMcFadden has a really nice complete Littorio superstructure that's already in a format that can be easily printed. Would be pretty easy to produce his files starting immediately vs taking a week to model it again.
     
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  6. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    OK noted, when you are at the battle in the spring you will be recruited to teach.
     
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  7. Xanthar

    Xanthar Active Member

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    @bsgkid117 is not wrong. Greg's very generous donation represents hundreds of man hours of work, it is clean, it is the proper scale, and no IP worries. I've started breaking it up into manageable chunks for my printers : )
     
    Last edited: Feb 12, 2020
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  8. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    How many man hours did it take to make this molded one in the proper scale and clean? Probably three times what it took digitally? I love how fast is better than hand crafted slow, my impression of round 3d printed items may be the reason.
     
  9. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    20200215_105855.jpg
    Hinges on WT door? 3d probably not.
     
  10. Xanthar

    Xanthar Active Member

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    Sure. Those will print nicely.
    Also round is possible : )
    Lattice-Mast.jpg Barbette.jpg
     
  11. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Well-Known Member

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    You can print something as small and detailed as you like. It's a function of time vs effort. If I wanted I could model the individual ladders and door handles on my Bart superstructure and it would print beautifully. It'd take about 9 weeks to print it all at .1 layer height. Not worth it to me when it's going to get shot up. I print at .64 layer height with .8-1mm wall thicknesses. I want it strong and done fast.

    Round can be very round, once again depending on time vs effort. Larger items are easier. Smaller items more difficult. Barbettes easy. Radar masts hard.

    Also depends on how well the user has the printer set up. E steps, extrusion multiplier, material temperatures, retractions, etc.
     
  12. Xanthar

    Xanthar Active Member

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    Interesting. You must be using a larger nozzle? How strong is strong? Please give us a way to quantify that. Print a few of these at those settings and put them under fire?
     
  13. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Well-Known Member

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    Volcano hotend, .8 nozzle. Larger line widths being stronger is common knowledge, no quantification needed. Check out CNCKitchens video on the topic. My Courbet superstructure, barbettes, and turrets are all .64 layers / .8 line widths Zyltech ABS. Larger layers being stronger depends on material and layer bonding.
     
  14. Xanthar

    Xanthar Active Member

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    LOL! Common knowledge is often wrong. As you say, it depends. There is no replacement for actual testing. I've found that smaller layer heights bond much better.
    Spending a few minutes printing something won't kill you. I'll send you some of mine to compare to.
     
  15. Beaver

    Beaver #notatypist Admiral (Supporter)

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    This is why we battle.
     
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  16. modelshipsahoy

    modelshipsahoy Vendor

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    The old school methods we use to make mold is very time consuming.... but......

    Once we have molds built and in service, I can foam mold entire boats upper parts in an hour. Try that with a 3D printer.
     
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  17. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Well-Known Member

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    I have started to transition to 3d printed molds for foam+rubber components.

    But as you said, it's very time consuming. I can 3d print my superstructure with a button press. Very minimal work involved if the models are already available, if they aren't I can do a combat acceptable detail 3d model in about 4 hours. No resin, no foam mixing.

    When my CNC router is finished I'll be making simple superstructures out of 1" foam board.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2020
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  18. Xanthar

    Xanthar Active Member

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    Back to the details on the Roma Super, here's that water tight door with hinges.
    wt-door.jpg
    Very do-able : )
     
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  19. Beaver

    Beaver #notatypist Admiral (Supporter)

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    That's very nice but superstructure is commonly printed vertically, no?
     
  20. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Well-Known Member

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    Superstructure is more commonly printed vertically yes. But I suppose if you wanted to you could cut the superstructure into flat planes that then need to be assembled like a house of cards. That way you could print it this way.
     
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