Got down to the pond today Will have no issue getting the freeboard to a minimum. This was at about 24lbs at max weight I think looks like I didn’t make the bow full enough to displace the correct amount. Next step will be windows
Still focusing on other builds but was able to cut out most of the windows today about 1.5 hours later still have to do the casements. Top edge needed some loving to get the two sides matching. Pretty thick hull, not Courbet-thick but better than average. The glass seemed softer than what I’m used to. Lost a few chunks which was unexpected, seems like adhesion isn’t what I’m used to. Will be interesting to see how she holds up to bbs look at how smooth the cut outs are. Such a critical part of the build so important that they ended up the same place as other cut outs... next will be casements, then shafts/motor mounts
Cut out casements. Innermost layer of glass has very poor adhesion, delaminates upon any disturbance, seen here as the white fibers. Something I have not seen before casement pictures casements are missing filler or chopped fibers, leading to several areas of gel coat separating from the glass. not good to be taking pre battle damage here there will be a lot of bondo in this hulls future unfortunately. For future hulls, casements should be backed by a lot of filler, ships used for battle can’t be this fragile Also got motor mounts in, my standard setup Need to get higher quality electrical tape, a lot of of adhesion issues causing run away filler next will be glassing around the shafts and struts
Those fiberglass issues are disappointing. I am not very experienced with fiberglass, what are your corrective measures going to be? You mentioned bondo, but I thought it didn't really like water all that much? Epoxy + filler? More glass cloth + epoxy?
We have learned so much about how to build this hull better since I made that one. Those casements are tight together and very sharp in the corners. Original instructions from you were that we should not worry about voids or flaws in the glass for the Combat Models... so we didn’t go back and grind open and fill the bubbles. Now very much wishing I did. Will send another if you are not happy. We now cut relief slits in the fiberglass skin and 1st sub layer then let that cure and sand the hard edges to prevent any bubbles or voids under the skin. Now, after building nearly a dozen of these, they come out very nice with no voids in the casements.
Might want to check the convo history on that one...I did say rough surface is fine, sorry for not clarifying that rough surface being acceptable did not mean that voids behind the glossy gelcoat were acceptable, would have gladly cleared that up to prevent a subpar product going out. Fundamentally, having hidden voids doesn't make sense for a combat application - balsa only attaches in a few locations. If those locations are just gelcoat, it's not going to work under fire. Casements take a large amount of abuse because they are solid area on the hull. Hulls without gelcoat hold no secrets I do appreciate the offer for another hull but I wouldn't ask for that. I'll be able to get this one closer to my standards, just more work that wasn't in the build schedule. I'll have to grind out all of the cavities and fill with epoxy + microfibers. It will be a pain to control the filler on the curved surfaces of the casements, especially since I already sunk the time in making solid casements for the plug, which is why I mentioned Bondo. I would put a layer of cloth and epoxy over the bondo. I still have the casement template kicking around that might come in use. The thin curved surfaces on the casements will be back-filled when I put the deck in. Maybe 2-3 hours of additional work for a 100 hour build isn't a big deal. Back to the workshop. I'll take some pictures of other casements I've made to give a better reference of what 'solid' looks like
I infused some super thin CA to the area, well really the whole parameter. It stunk like hells door, causing near blindness. But it seemed to work? Open the window next time.
Thin ca has been and continues to be my go to for fixing voids ECT in glass. Also I find clay to work better than tape for controlling runaway filler.
What clay do you use? Tape has held up over the years, just looks like I found the line between 'good enough' and 'not good enough' is about $1 a role, oh well (to the grab bag pile) Motor mounts Now shafts and struts. had to do in two parts to get adequate filler below mounts Also did bow featherlite because i was mixing a batch epoxy job with better tape
I myself use plumbers putty a lot to contain epoxy and other liquids. Works well but it a little oily. It's what i have on hand.
Little bit of work today. Checked out prop setup. Will be using prop shop 1.7” cleaned up inside some rough layout next will be waterchannel and rudders
I like bondoglass for fairing in voids and curves. It is easy to prep, apply, and shape. If you slice off the excess (x-acto knife) when it is half cured and sand it down with 80 grit or so it will get you 95% of the way there. After it cures it will be virtually indestructible. Another light sanding and a layer of epoxy seals it good. I always use it around shaft exits for strength and aesthetics.
Hadn't thought of that. Sounds like a good way to go. That's what I like about you guys. You are full of good info but still take suggestions. Awesome.
I’ve been sick for a couple weeks now struggling with a double ear infection. It’s put us pretty far behind in production and kept me from my hobby as a typist here. But today I’m building a Kongō. I wanted to show you what we’ve learned about this mold and how to make it right with no casement voids. Our sincere apologies for the misunderstanding of the importance of this issue. We now use finely chopped glass that will lie wherever we put it without drawing air in over the peaks and valleys. Once that cures, we sand the surface soothe and lay in the armor belts upon assembly of the halves.
