WWI Kongo (IRCWCC)

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by Kevin P., Oct 20, 2019.

  1. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Hope you feel better

    Glad to see the improvements. I cut strips of mat about 3/4” high and cut to the various lengths for each casement. Add in layers of filler (micro fibers), and build up underneath with mat, then put cloth over each one for a nice smooth transition, bubble free.

    I know you’ve made lots more hulls than I have, but allowing layers to cure between batches could be the source of the poor layer adhesion on the hulls. Ideally the layers will be made when the polyester is still in gel form. Laying up a Courbet Hull was done in three phases, each side to get the casements right, then upright down the middle, took about 4 hours start to finish but zero layer adhesion issues. It’s the method my dad taught me many years ago (woodworker and real boat builder).
     
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  2. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    I used JB weld, kind of like a booger fix but it worked.
     
  3. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Steve’s coming along
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    should resume mine this week once Missouri is done
     
  4. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Steve’s is ready for sea trials. I need to draw up and print superstructure
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    I got the drag shafts in tonight, hopefully waterchannel by Tuesday
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  5. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    looks like a porcupine. nice.

    That hull looks shiny. Is steve cutting the windows as the last step or is that just a gloss paint?
     
  6. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Steve cuts the hull out last
     
  7. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    Unique. I think I can deduce some of the reasoning.

    the Kaleidoscope of build methods expands.
     
  8. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    It’s actually quite common to cut windows last, you’d probably find a 50/50 split across active IRCWCC captains. There are pluses and minuses to both. My build sequence has been refined around cutting them first, so there are several steps I use that would be a good deal more challenging with a solid hull
     
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  9. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    Probably the same reasons I like leaving the armor screen and sheeting until a few days before I put a wood hull on the water.

    I absolutely love being able to see what the equipment looks like when I have all the hatches closed. Helps with running tubing, wires....

    But I bet there's an equally valid reason for not cutting windows first.

    One of the most fascinating parts of the hobby is seeing how people get from the plans to the battle.
     
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  10. rcaircraftnut

    rcaircraftnut Well-Known Member

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    Many times I've shown people new ways to do something only to have them return the favor only a short while later. I love this hobby. I hope I can do it for many years to come.
     
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  11. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Water channel in. ended up being a bit lopsided in the main section, so I’ll have to check to see how bad it is later
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    stern
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    boat stack for Nats hopefully, plus the three convoys
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  12. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Started on basic SS
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    also printed a rudder servo holder, will get pictures tomorrow
     
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  13. Lou

    Lou Plastic magic -->> C T D <<-- Admiral (Supporter)

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    Are there STL's for the Kongo SS?
     
  14. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    I can post them once I finish drawing up the rest. Printing the aft SS and stack now, need to draw up the two mid stacks
     
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  15. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Aft SS
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    rudder Mount. I had the gears from a past project that weren’t used.
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    Servo mount epoxied
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    pump holder(just the posts)
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    Maybe deck tomorrow
     
  16. Anvil_x

    Anvil_x Well-Known Member

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    I will be using this rudder setup. consider your technology appropriated......
     
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  17. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Please do
    Got the deck ready to go in. Should epoxy tomorrow
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  18. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't matter
    Would that servo mount work with rudder tubes (not sure the technical name) already installed?

    Looking to get rid of the arm setup in my Baden if possible.

    What's the distance between those tubes as well? I'd assume I'd need something closer for my single 2" prop.
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2020
  19. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Servo mount was designed for Kongo, but is easily adaptable for other ships. This one the rudder post spacing is about 1.55” center right center. It really comes down to whether or not the servo and gear can fit under the deck up against the rudders. you can make a similar mount out of wood, I print them now because it’s easier to ensure correct dimensions and alignment

    Got the deck rim in today, most complex epoxy job of the build. I think it came out alright
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  20. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Post epoxy trim
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    after
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    cut out 3 of the barbs
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    taped edge to fill gaps from underneath
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    epoxy drying
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