Duca D'Aosta Superstructure Fixed Super 10/13/18

3d printable Duca Superstructure

  1. pipi135

    pipi135 Member

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    pipi135 submitted a new resource:

    Duca D'Aosta Superstructure - 3d printable Duca Superstructure

    Read more about this resource...
     
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  2. Radioman

    Radioman Member

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    Well done with the 3d superstructure. A couple of questions. What did you print it with, PLA or ABS? Next what infill value did you use?
    I have two of these hules and going to try and build one for combat.
     
  3. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Well-Known Member

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    I haven't printed this, but having done the Dunkerque's SS and a Suffren-class cruiser's SS, I can still give some decent advice.

    I used PLA for its printing ease and because I don't regularly experience 140~ degree temperatures. I just don't leave my boat in a black car in the sun. For durability, Dunkerque's turrets+lower levels are all 2.4mm or 3.2mm thick with 50% infill. Everything above that is 1.2mm or .8mm walls with 8% infill for light weight. The Suffren cruiser superstructure was printed to be as light as possible and essentially disposable, you want it thin so when BB's hit it they pass through without shattering it because making it thick enough to take hits will make the boat too top heavy. Your mileage may vary, experiment with different parts at different thicknesses and see how the boat gets beaten up while battling and reinforce as necessary.
     
  4. Commodore

    Commodore Active Member

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    How does the PLA hold up vs ABS in combat?
     
  5. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Well-Known Member

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    I can update with pictures later, but my Dunkerque superstructure and turrets have taken many hits and no penetrations. Mostly minimal denting. PLA is actually slightly stronger than ABS, and but is more brittle**. PLA will hold slightly farther than ABS, but where ABS would then bend PLA will snap.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2018
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  6. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    We shoot DOWN. But even with that bias PLA holds up well in Wills case.
     
  7. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    hah, thats going to get you several different answers.
    Between Greg and I we have a fair bit of printed bits in harms way. Theres a thread on 3dp damage tolerance in the Digital Design & Fabrication subforum that may be useful, note in particular my post here:
    https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/3dp-damage-tolerance.443915/#post-512478

    which leads us to:
    I disagree. :D
    My experience is that PLA shatters where ABS will often dent. ABS does tend to be a little more pliable which may cause it to dent on an impact that PLA might resist, but a hit that will split well-printed ABS will, in my experience, shatter PLA. Impact ratings on PLA and ABS will back me up on this, but.... refer to my above quoted statement.

    YMMV
     
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  8. bsgkid117

    bsgkid117 Well-Known Member

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    Nick, I might have gotten them backwards :bang: I thought PLA was technically stronger, but perhaps its stronger but will snap and ABS will bend?

    Either way, honestly either works perfectly fine for this hobby. If you are using ABS or PLA, you should do fine. Just remember the temperature sensitivity of the PLA and don't put your boat in the oven.

    I can show pictures of plenty of BB impacts on the Dunkerque that show no penetration and barely any dent at all. As @thegeek said above, our guns are supposed to be shooting down after all. My turrets, barbettes, and entire superstructure are PLA and I have had no shatters or failures of any type. This could be because of the thickness I printed at ( I would love to compare settings vs your ABS pieces) or perhaps just my brand of filament. I dunno.
     
    Last edited: Sep 27, 2018
  9. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Stronger is a matter of which physical property you're interested in really. PLA is in theory more rigid, but less impact resistant, and obviously at some amount of thermal risk if left in a car in a sunny summers day. But there are a lot of formulations of PLA now, Ingeo makes some that have fantastic properties. And ABS in any formulation isn't worth a damn if your layer bond is poor or if the filaments moisture level was high when printed.

    I print most of my ABS at 240-250c, no part cooling fans, with between 3 and 6 perimeters, depending on what I'm up to. I prefer to make things that should look thin actually be thin, and make them replaceable rather than giant thick hulks. I brush down the sides of my prints with acetone and when possible will mount them with E6000 for a little extra give as well as ease of replacement.
     
  10. Commodore

    Commodore Active Member

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    So, yeah, I have a Prusa 3 on order, hopefully get here in a (few) weeks. Not quite sure what I'm going to do with it, but that will be part of the fun. Thinking about trying some of the carbon fiber polycarbonate and see how that works, but that's for later. I'll probably start with the easy/cheap stuff and do some 'throwaway' stuff first, see how it goes. :p
     
  11. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Bear in mind that CF doesn't actually add anything structural in the way that CF filled plastics normally would. Its basically CF dust and hides layer lines and looks good.
    With that said... a few of us in a very specific 3d printer community are using this stuff to make some parts, and it prints really easy.
    https://amzn.to/2xWES4S
    Its clearly a PC blend, probably a PC-ABS, but the parts look great. I have not yet printed anything for toy boats with it yet though.
     
  12. Commodore

    Commodore Active Member

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    Actually, that's the stuff I was referring to.
     
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  13. Beaver

    Beaver #notatypist Admiral (Supporter)

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    For ultimate durability, print in nylon!
     
  14. Maxspin

    Maxspin -->> C T D <<--

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    My intent is to print a light replaceable superstructure. My hope is that it would last for a season. I have no expectation that it would look as good battle 5 as it id battle 1. Some in season patching or repair would be expected. Similar to today's traditional builds...... I will start with PLA because it is the easiest for home printers. Also cheaper than that fancy stuff.
    I am waiting to see how the printed integrated cannons take a season of punishment. I may look into tougher stuff for some components....

    Keith
     
  15. Nate G

    Nate G Active Member

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    PC-ABS, HIPS, and esp PET-G hold up very well.
     
  16. pipi135

    pipi135 Member

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    pipi135 updated Duca D'Aosta Superstructure with a new update entry:

    Duca D'Aosta Superstructure

    Let me know if there are any changes I should make!

    Read the rest of this update entry...
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2018
  17. Radioman

    Radioman Member

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    Thanks Pipi135, I guess I opened up quite discussion here, but that is good. I like your turrets plan on printing them.
     
  18. pipi135

    pipi135 Member

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    no problem! glad someone else can use the files.
     
  19. pipi135

    pipi135 Member

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    If anyone is printing these right now. dont print the file SS-L1-3. I need to make some changes after installing on my hull
     
  20. pipi135

    pipi135 Member

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