I thought Cargo ships didn't git pumps and the rules said ribs of a certain max length for tallness and that's all I planed really planed for. water channeling I really didn't plan for as that didn't seem to be covered in the rules when I was planning this ship design. I really didn't plan to any given rule set as it is a cargo ship and it will not be firing back only that it needs to move around and sink, what at exactly have I missed?
I am thinking I had fast gun in mind when I designed the thing... I remember reading the fastgun and big gun rules they both seemed very similar.
I can only directly speak to IRCWCC requirements. There are still applicable construction rules for convoy (cargo) ships, mainly with respect to impenetrable area, speed, rudder area. Looking at the ship, for IRCWCC rules the impenetrable area in the stern would need to be changed - the limit is 1" from the extreme stern, with the bottom of the windows at 45 degrees or 1 inch below waterline (whichever is less). Also some of the frames look like they are solid, which is classified as a bulkhead which would need to be changed (cut in middle to not restrict water). Waterchanneling isn't a rule just a good general practice to get the boat to sink level - in a convoy ship, all you would need is a small amount in the outboards which would cause water to pool in the middle rather than one one side or the other. The bottoms of the frames look like they will restrict water from evenly distributing, which will probably cause the boat to list quickly if damage isn't evenly distributed. We also only use convoy ships during nationals event, for two of the 8 battles. Next year Nationals is July 11-16 in Oakboro, NC
I started off with a brass plug last night and Made one of the two end caps for my propeller shaft grease lock, now I just need to make one more... My tools are a Drill, file set, and a Dremel tool. I wish I had a miniature metal lath it would make this so much easier for me...
this being my first ship it was designed and shown and everyone seemed to approve the 3D model, but I know the Aft of the ship frames will need some holes drilled in them as I had plugged the open windows when I installed the Rudder linkage I know that needs to change. the aft impenetrable area I really didn't see anything over the aft penetrable area so I was guessing it was the same as the front which said 2 inches, and the ship has to to go lower in the water to reach the water line so where the bottom sides are cut will most likely be under a inch in the water. the water channeling, I am planning on getting some shot and mix in with resume which will be spread all through out the hull bottom as no one has answered a question I posted in another form and I am not going to use over sized batteries as it is powering so few things.
Feedback is Good It mans I am in in the right direction or off and need to make changes Thank you Kevin P.
It's really the rules that matter vice posts on a forum, especially since there are different rule sets out there. I made a C3 mold last year, here's a post that shows how the windows were cut out, including the aft portion. In the extreme stern you hit the 45 degree requirement before the 1" below waterline https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/bogue-c3-ircwcc.446380/page-2#post-531917
The most aft part of the ship where the rudder is almost solid fiberglass to hold the rudder mount point "the brass plug" so even if I cut out a window in for the last inch i will not be very big of a window as there wasent all that much room there. Well it is my first ship build to figure out and find out how to and not do things.
I finished the propeller grease shaft, made a rolled fiberglass tube to house the lock. now I am going to Fiberglass the tube in to the rear of the ship to make it permanent, I am going to have the grease lock removable tho. I will make changes to the aft hull skin later after these parts are installed.
I floated the ship with the new aft parts, I think the water is getting in between the Duck tapa. I was marking the water line and I will need to add a 1 inch & 1/4 of waight to float at th right height. I used a marker and marked till it hit the water and stoped marking
Wife's Unicorn key chain ornament wants to go for a sea voyage. lol In all seriousness, I am going to start on the top side items to make her look more like who she is supposed to look like.
I am in the process of building the top side items. tin is soldered to tin while tin is super glued to plastic. the funel and the hatch structor are both paper that I will replace some time later.
Looking good. Not sure if superglue is the best material to attach the metal bits to the plastic bits, due to its brittleness. It may break under the stress of repeated bb impacts. Many people on this forum swear by E6000, and I have had good results with the stuff too.
I have a question dose anyone know if the girls on the Bow 5 inch wepon armor plate was there in the 1940's or wear added later?
I know it has been a while sense I worked on this ship, I was cutting out the rear of the ship. Dose this look close to passing the rules? I still have to drill a few holes, the most lower back areas are filled with resume to hold the brass plug that holds the rudder or is full of gorilla glue just around where the propeller comes out of the fiberglass areas.
Yes cutting out along the pencil lines looks better, and cut out the bulkheads in the stern. Typically you’d want to hard area along most of the length to go up higher to 1” below waterline, looking at the shaft placement the boat will have to be sunk down a fair amount to get the prop under water and further to get it to not cavitate, also probably want a smaller prop
Shouldn't the stern follow the 45 degree turn, I don't think you want to make the keel penetrable. I am doing a BC hull, will see if I can post pics on what I mean.
Yes, it should look something like the c3 hull see last post on this link https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/bogue-c3-ircwcc.446380/page-2
