Andy ran his Balt triples on a 3.5 oz tank. Never any issues, not enough gas for a second sortie though. I run my Kongo on 3.5, that's another 25 bbs. John B ran his QE on a 3.5oz tank, but he said he had to be very careful to get a good fill and not waist gas. Zach can get two sortie on one tank of CO2 with twin sterns. I think a 2.8 tank would be just enough CO2 with trips. It kind of depends on what kind of guns you have too. The guns in Washington are gas hogs. The other guns I have are not.
Strike has either the 2.8 or the 5 oz, battlers connection is carrying a 3.5 3.5 oz. Bottle BTL35 $59.00
wonderful!! i'll take care of everything this weekend.. r next question.. what regulator? Lou: expect a lot of e-mails and text messages
Heiko, here is where to order the batteries: 38120S 10Ah Headway Energy Cell - Headway Headquarters | LiFePO4 Cells, LiFePO4 Battery Packs for EV, Lithium Iron Phosphate Battery You will want to get 4 of them, plus a charger
On chargers for the batteries above, which is the recommended? BatterySpace.com/AA Portable Power Corp. Tel: 510-525-2328 - Smart Charger for 3.2V-9.6V (1-3 cells) LiFePO4 Battery Packs/Cells
I recommend getting a smart charger that will charge more than just the LiFe batteries. The IMAX B6 on that page would be a good charger, although Hobby King has the same charger in their US warehouse for 1/3 the price. I use an iCharger iCharger 106B-plus 250W 6s Balance/Charger (US Warehouse) that is a great charger, although it's more than most people need. This is a decent entry level charger that will handle everything most people have: Turnigy Accucel-6 50W 6A Balancer/Charger w/ Accessories (US Warehouse)
i have the small thing from battery space for the LiFe4 batteries and an onyx 245.... never tested on LiFe4 batteries. heard a lot of good things about the Turnigy...and tested it last year on lipos as soon as possible i will place an order anyway at hobbyking... so i would add the charger, too.. will also take care of the batteries... as soon as possible... thanks guys!!
I poop on the cylindrical LiFe cells... they're only rated for a 3C discharge rate! My receiver battery is rated higher than that
The other LiFePo prismatic cells in 20 amp. size (blue rectangular cells) can't do more than 2c continuous, and that is why the smaller packs for aircraft are better for pumps because of the 20-50c rating
yes and they are very authentic. when they got hit they start smoking before they explode... like the big ships.... LOL i do a lot of race boats and know how it looks like when you exceed the 30C discharge or drain too much....I don't dare to use lipos in the battle ships...
Not much need for a 20c battery in our hobby. If you are actually drawing amps from your battery at 20c, it will only last 3 minutes. Even drawing at 3c will only give you a 20 minute battery life. Assuming you are doing two 15 minute sorties on a battery, you need to draw less than 2c.
I bought this charger for 2013 Nats and for the road liked it so much I bought another: HobbyKing 4B6 Balance Charger Plus Accessories (200W) and this power supply for travel (be sure to order the right power cord.. it doesn't come with one) HobbyKing 350w 25A Power Supply (220v~240v) and I have this one that I leave at home for most battles but take to Nats: HobbyKing 540w 220~240v Power Supply (13.8v~18v - 30amp) I don't use my 'brick' chargers anymore because I charge cruiser packs(nimh) transmitter batteries (nimh) lithium receiver battery packs, 20AH Lithium, and Lead acid.. all at the same time. I took it up to the Icebreaker last year and Bob put it to use charging packs for the new guys. I like it mostly as it a power supply and charger pack easily in one of my empty transmitter cases along with batteries. I still have my Hyperion single charger (Which would work for the headway cells, Lou I think you have one of those) At Nats I can charge 8 cells at once.. no more waking up at 1am to change out batteries.. It has been nice.
Heiko, I've been using LiPOs in my boats for years... with the same safety record that my lead-acid and NiMH batteries had.
The concern is not that I want to draw 30C continuously during the battle, it's that I want to draw 20C when I run my pump intermittently while driving around.
Lou and I basically finished the list with the parts we need but going over this forum and see how you guys build the boats it is amazing how many input i got and on the other hand i'm overwhelmed (sounds better than confused) with the possibilities and how i should make the set up of the motors: the original idea was 2 motors on longer shafts and run the guns in between. but in this report: Admiral Sparrow's Graf Spee | Page 5 | R/C Warship Combat Craig made a really interesting set up with one motor and 2 shafts which i also like very much. how is your experience with one motor on two prop shafts in general and would it also work with a 550 size??? i think the motor would be too close to the shafts and maybe too high for the deck...?? how long have the shafts to be so that they do not interfere with the gun arrangement?
ok, slowly but sure we will start with the boat. quick question: i bought the boat with a one-page blueprint made by Jeff Poindexter (?) it says: page 1 of 2. so obviously sheet 2 of 2 is missing. does anybody have a second sheet and what is on it? any good sources for a Luetzow plan? i found two at Strikemodels: Ed Wiswesser and George Goff Plans i didn't find anything that looks like a Deutschland class cruiser drawing at Warship plans. Official page of publisher of PROFILE MORSKIE series .... (seriously???)
