OK….. not new. Just a shameless knock off of the Stynger https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/anatomy-of-a-tyngtech-stynger-cannon.443874/ Maxspin Armaments Co. is lacking the precision tooling found at TyngTech, so some what less technical... My KIP solenoids crapped out on the Washington, so my new Barham build had to sacrifice my new Spartan Solenoids to the cause. For our last battle of the year it was just a quick re-plum. I was looking at it last night and thought it was a perfect chance to try out the “ALL NEW” Maxspin MK I prototype. First I pulled a bowgun of the Washington. OK not real proud of the mounts. Don’t laugh, it worked…. Starting with a pretty standard built cannon. I removed the bottom cap from the T of the cannon and replaced with a (90 degree 1/8" NPT to 1/4" flair adapter). It took several trips to hardware stores NOPE, automotive stores. Just one…. Before I hit the jackpot. Ahhhh…. It a EDELMANN 122420. A part number makes all the difference The only modification that I have made from a standard gun is to drill 3/32 dia hole in the bottom and solder a 3/32 tube in to the hole. Piston height is adjusted by how far you screw the EDELMANN fitting onto the T. I then took the prototype out to the firing range to test. I had a little spurting an full tweak, but not bad at all for such a quick change out. I could get shots through 2” of pink foam on the first try. Future improvements: · SS tight tolerance barrel · Magnet at T · Supper secret Maxspin MK II prototype……
Since the o-ring is after the elbow, the elbow will not effect how hard the cannon will shoot. The oring stops the bb in place until enough pressure builds up behind it.
That was an old Swampworks gun. I have mentioned before about the deficiencies of Maxspin Armaments. I have enough trouble with soldering brass & copper.
Get the brake line in 6 foot lengths and make sure it is galvanized (very easy to tin and solder), bending it isn't too bad by hand but with a quality bender you can make really tight bends. It will not blow out like the copper, and holds up forever. It will rust inside so keep it blown out after a sink.
Introducing the MAX MK II prototype. The MK II was successful, but there were very little improvement from the MK I. I ran into difficulty fitting easily even in a N.Carolina turret. I will stick to the MK I design. Next step brakeline MK III..... Starting to look more and more line a stynger.
When you pickup the brake line, see if they have one of these. Works well for all my bending. One source: http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/gearwrench-tubing-bender-2517-p-11821.aspx
I've had brake line blow out, but that was after two years of hard battling using 7/32" balls. It isn't too difficult to work with, so it's easier to replace when the time comes.
