I have always liked the characteristics of the High Seas Fleet over the Allies dreadnoughts. I have also had an itch to scratch build a boat. I was not originally going to do a build thread, but since I may have some questions of those who run these regularly I will go ahead and do it. I am not going to run through how to lay out ribs. It has been covered better than I could do at: On the Ways: Bearn CV and SB-101 'Building MN Edgar Quinet
Assemble glue (using Tite Bond III) At this point I see my first errors. Front rib is not required (cut it out) Now I am down to (10) ribs. I am allowed (12). Add (2) more in bow area. (this would have been much easier before glue up)
I plan on using a gear box in the water channel. Here is a picture of the lay up for the prop shaft. You can also see where I was playing with a BIC. I have made no gun decision at this point.
I used 1" balsa to fill between the ribs. 3/4" would have worked. By putting the blocks at a sleight angle from the waterline to the water channel I will create water flow to reduce listing.
Rough trim with knife (sorry no picture) Sand with sanding block to shape. Note helper, hole digger, chewer.....
Aft hard area was made with hard wood. I had Maple on hand. This will give nice solid structure to mount rudders in. Double check on the water line showed error #2. Needs to be cut at pen line. Dang 1" balsa. Start carving. Wish I knew where I got this Dremel bit. I can't find them any more. Much better.
A quick look at the planned layout. I only have (1) battery as of now. I will be using one on either side of the CO2 tank. I am planning on a stern sidemount, a bow sidmount and use one of the wing turrets for either an aft or a 15% aft with down angle. Batteries and CO2 center located for balance. Prop will be a 1 3/4" drive, with (2) drag props. I really like the ServoCity servo mounts. I will be using a set again for Nassau. Still working out the gearing for the rudders. I found the the Battlers Connection GB300 gearbox will bolt up to 450 size heli brushless motor. Still deciding what I am going to use for a pump. Most likely brushless. Battery pack. I am looking at the Zippy LiFe 4200. They are more expensive than I like. Looking for suggestions.
Worked on turning this weekend. First I cut the drag props and rudders. Drag props made from some scrap 1/8" fiberglass. I made a set at 1 3/4" and 1 1/2". I will have to see how the 1 3/4" drag props fit. Rudders are made from sandwiched 1/8" plywood. Bend the end of 1/8" brass rod. Trace and cut to fit then glue the 3 pieces together. Once the glue dries, sand to shape.
CASEMATES Here is how I intend to build the casemates. I am using Goff drawings, since I want to be legal I will show what I intend before I get started. The casement is 5/8" tall, so I intend to make the openings 1/2" with a 1/8" cap. Here is what I traced. Here is how it lays on the model.
I will try one more time. Here is the rule in question: 16. On ships which have casemate mounted guns, the cupolas may be constructed of impenetrable material. A 1/8" wide strip on each side of the cupola may also be impenetrable. If a flat bulkhead area between cupolas is inset more than 1/2" from the edge of the gunwale the entire casemate area (cupolas and all flat bulkhead areas inset greater than 1/2") may be made impenetrable. Here is the application: it measures 1/2" on the drawing. SOLID! Because it is a Geoff drawing..... I would rather hear protest now than pond side......
Answer a question with a question. Look at my photo and reply. You get to be solid past 1/2", but if it comes back under 1/2" then it needs to open up again. This might be the case here. I know on my QE the casement level is open at the bow, goes solid, opens back up again.
On the Goff drawing it is 1/2" in the yellow "exactly". My model would need to have the "solid" area shaved down about 1/16" to get it to 1/2". It would not be dificult to make it open if I did it now. I don't trust the Goff drawing. I will choose to go with the when in doubt leave it open. We are only talking about an inch in the casement.
Mark roe helped me redo the VDT and i am going with your thought, ill open her up as much as i can becuz anyway i look its more fun sinking than to worry about upsetting anyone.
Parts to play with. You may be wondering what Zebra wrapping paper has to do with a boat??? Its not the paper, it’s the cardboard tube. I have been making the stacks this way for years. Very light and durable. First I place a spacer to get oval shape. Then use two layers of fiberglass. First layer is a courser layer for strength. Sand out the rough spThen a fine layer for better visual. I learned after the first attempt years ago to make sure to leave excess to cut off. Once they are cut to length drop them in water, and scrape off the soggy cardboard tube.
Measure, cut, sand, glue, sand, measure, cut sand, glue, sand, measure, cut, sand, glue, sand. I am developing an irrational hatred of guys with 3D printers. On an interesting note. There must not be good prints for this boat. Doing a search for Nassau/Westfallen models, it is interesting to note the different interpretations of superstructure. I will capture the elements that stand out, and keep everything else fairly basic.
