We should collaborate on the triple! I’d be curious what you do that’s different than the triple I’ve been testing. It’s hitting hard enough with BBs for big gun. I was already prepped to acetone vapor the latest revision which should be capable of 7/32”. At least that was the plan before sea trials was a disaster….
Looking pretty good at the moment. If you move that rudder servo forward a few inches, it should be easy to fit a standard size servo.
I would NOT have called that "easy"! The servo mount is now pushed forward enough to mount a full size servo. - The photos below are depicting the small servo that I was using before; but you can see all the space around it. - To accommodate a larger servo; the servo plate will be taller to match the increased depth of the servo. I did this so I can easily change out servos by printing out different plates. It does make me sad to see all that space be consumed by only the rudder push-rod.
Gear box time! I'm going to write this entry as I work; using this forum as a notepad. Goals: - I want as much flexibility as possible. Once again, I absolutely do not want to get stuck with another show stopper and unable to proceed. - I want to support speed increase and speed reduction gear ratios, because I don't exactly know what I'll wind up needing. - I want to support gears and pulleys. Firstly, I cut the largest gear-trench in my hull that I felt comfortable. This is to support larger prop-shaft gears and slowing the boat down with higher torque, if needed. The maximum prop gear which now fits is 28mm (33T/32P); which is the same diameter as my new 380 motors. Next, I wanted to do something a little more realistic to measure the top gear spacing. On the following thread, @Commodore recommended a set of gears as starters. - https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/what-gears-are-you-using.447253/ I used the diameter of those gears as a rough minimum distance between the prop and the motor shaft. I then added a little extra tolerance. Then, I resized the motor plate, verifying actual motor dimensions against the physical unit. Lastly, I wanted to verify I had enough spacing for gears or pulleys. I expect that 3/4" is plenty.
Next Update - CO2 Bottle, improved mount. The first revision wasn't steep enough & the bottle would feed liquid CO2. I also assumed the new bottles were magnetic, like the ones I had years ago... nope! This revision is a lot steeper, and I've support & sliced the shape of the bottle into the hull. Lastly, I hate bottles that fall out. So I added strap mounts too.
Today’s update- I give total credit to the guys in NTXBG for this design. It was originally designed to give structure and support to the Indiana gun’s rotation fitting. When I saw it, I realized it could be adapted for my canister cannons! It is essentially an all plastic ball bearing.
Have your new motors arrived yet? Also, a 28 tooth gear on the drive shaft is sufficient, you don't need to run anything huge. It just makes alignment etc. more difficult.
Yup the motors arrived yesterday. I rechecked all the measurements & sent the motor + aft sections to the printer tonight.
The thing I don't like about gears the most is the cost of them. No matter where I look, the online vendors are asking like $10-15 per gear. I figured I might as well try to print them & see how it does. Even if they don't hold up long, I'd at least like to have confidence in the size gear that I need to buy. I went with the herringbone gear pattern because the key shape will hold the gears in alignment. It’ll also sound better than spurs, which is cool too.
Traxxas 32p gears @ amainhobbies.com are like $3-7 each... I'm all for 3d printed stuff but I have destroyed hardened heat treated steel gears in a boat, printed gears would last about 1.8 sorties. If that. Would in reality last until the first rapid forward/reverse slam or first mossing or first prop grounding while maneuvering.
Thank you @Kevin P. - I remember using 48P back in the day and it never survived the second sortie. Not saying the plastic will hold up any better, but it's far cheaper... @bsgkid117 - None of those will fit the recommended 380 motors, which both have a 2.3mm shaft. I am still in my amazon purchase window so I can return them. Can you recommend a different 380 motor with a 1/8" shaft?
The 48p gears were an ‘industry standard’ for a long time and have been combat proven many times over, so it sounds like an install error or something in your case. I currently have them in Courbet and radetzky both running 550’s at fast gun speeds with multiple nationals under their belt. I’ve moved away from them in anything class 4 and up for new builds because that’s about the limit I found, but for a 380 on a cruiser at big gun speeds they would perform fine. I consider drive to not be a ‘nice to have’ so personally I would go with the 48p over the printed design, buts it’s of course your build, just want to make sure relevant info from the broader combat world is shared
