SMS Posen fastgun build

Discussion in 'Warship Builds' started by wdodge0912, May 31, 2018.

  1. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    You will have to look at the boat to figure out prop shaft length. Look at pictures of Carl's. https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/sms-nassau.444643/

    The shaft will be pretty short, somewhere around 6". It shouldn't stick out of the hull that far from the keel, just enough so the prop will clear the bottom of the hull. Inside the hull, it should be long enough that the gearbox can sit flat on the bottom of the hull. The shaft will extend into the gearbox most of the way. You could probably drill the hole for the shaft now, and use a small stick to figure out what the length should be. This part is hard to type out, but the length is hull and gearbox specific. If you are still unsure, try to get to a local build session for in-person assistance

    You don't need a v-strut for the drive shaft, but you will need 2 for the drag shafts (or regular struts)

    I would not worry about balsa and silkspan now, that is typically one of the last steps. Being able to see through the sides is helpful for figuring out internal arrangement, and it's pretty easy to accidentally stick your finger through the balsa

    To figure out casements and ribs, read the rules, but you will probably need help at a local build session. Generally hard to type out, and it's better if you read the rules then ask specific questions. http://ircwcc.com/main/home/rules/

    At some point you will want at least 1 spare motor and probably a spare ESC, that could wait until the boat is battle ready

    Other things you might want to consider purchasing is water channel material, and some sort of epoxy / polyester resin to glue stuff together / waterproof things. You will need 5/32" brass tube (or similar) for the rudder posts, also scrap wood or other material to make rudder servo mount.

    I'll recommend again that you spend time looking at completed build threads to see what stuff you need, and ask specific questions if you aren't sure. It's a lot to try and type out, and there are probably things that will be forgotten if the questions remain general
     
  2. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    6 to 8 inch shaft on my nassau. Don't cheap out and use 3/16 shaft you won't regret it.
     
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  3. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    Doesn't matter

    I'm planning on getting the fiberglass for rib reinforcement, and the water channeling materials locally. Also the epoxy. I will get them this next paycheck as well, I just want to get ordered everything I would possibly need from an online order.

    would the rudder posts on BC be something I should order with the rudders?

    I plan on having a spare ESC and motor, as well as a spare pump assembly, but want to get the ship going first.

    for the prop shaft, I was just going to buy one from BC. but those are a 1/8" stainless steel shaft in a 1/4" diameter stuffing tube. would that not work? If they will, I'll probably but a 6" and an 8" then, they aren't much.

    I'll grab 2 1"4 singles then, but I don't plan on adding the outer shafts until later. I figured those could just be a solid rod with the disc on them, since they won't be powered.

    I'm just trying to get everything I would need to buy in order to be able to start work on the ship. I don't plan on having it going any time this year, but I would like to have everything for it. that way next time there is a local build session, I can go there and get help. hard to put something together when you don't have the parts. I'm trying to get the "small" parts first.

    I'll wait on the balsa, and worrying about the casemate and ribs. I do want to try to get the deck mounted, is there anything with the ribs/casemates that would affect this?

    I'm kind of thinking the konig having everything available on BC might have been a better choice. everything being already picked out would have made this a bit easier.
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2018
  4. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    Prop shaft from BC is fine. 3/16" is needed for high performance setups.

    Drag shafts are simple, I usually add them right after the drive shaft. I use 1/4" brass tube with a threaded 'shaft' (6-32 bolt) to hold on the disks.

    Rudder post you can go with the BC post, or just buy 5/32" brass tube from local hardware store / hobby shop, and use a block of wood to add support. For the n-th time, look at build threads, there are plenty of pictures of rudder post setups. I will probably install the rudder posts in one of my ships today, and it takes less time to accomplish than it takes to write this reply. Here are some pictures https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/agincourt-build-ircwcc.445369/page-2#post-517794

    I would take care of reinforcing the ribs and then cutting them down to size, and cutting casements before you get into the deck install. It's much easier without deck in the way. Here are some pictures from one of my builds where I built up the ribs

    https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/uss-california-ircwcc.444786/page-2#post-508595

    Here are pictures of casements being cut out. The specific location of the casement guns varies ship to ship, but generally they end up looking something like this https://rcwarshipcombat.com/threads/agincourt-build-ircwcc.445369/#post-517397

    Konig would not be any easier, even a 'kit' has significant assembly / modifications to components required to get everything right

    Overall your list from BC is fine to start, they ship quickly if you forget anything
     
  5. djranier

    djranier Well-Known Member

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    Rick is back from Vacation.
     
  6. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    Great idea, build it to ""low performance", should make you very competitive at a event?
     
  7. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    I mean, he's fighting Kas, how much performance do you really need? ;)
     
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  8. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    22 seconds would help.
     
  9. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    but it won't be any harder right?

    I talked with Panzer and he's willing to swap the Nassau back for the Konig hull he has. I'm really appreciative of that, he didn't have to do it at all, so I must thank him again. I'm wanting to do this not only because there is hardware kits available specific for the Konig (even though they will need to be modified), but also because it is a bigger ship. I think that would help make it easier to get me going. And I won't feel like I need another ship.
     
  10. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    It will be different, some aspects harder, some easier. Honestly you were probably closer to your desired hardware setup on your recent revised list than you would be with the stock hardware kit. I would stick with that previous list, maybe go to 2" prop, and figure out the correct shaft length (less of a concern in larger boat). You could potentially get the deck and remainder of ship kit from BC if desired. You should build a ship you will want to use for a bit, at this stage you really just need to get started doing stuff, typing only goes so far
     
  11. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    I can still get the parts for it separate than a hardware kit. I'm just thinking that for me for a first ship the Konig would be easier to lay out as it is bigger. really the only difference is the size and weight limit. as well as 1 extra gun.

    and would it being a bigger ship mean that it can take some more hits before sinking, if given the same water channeling quality, and other variables that come down to the builder were the same?

    with ribs and casements, I can cut them out, I just don't know exactly what would need to be cut. I think some plans might help me figure that all out.

    I'm going to get in contact with BC about the Konig. I take it the BC derfflinger turrets would be close enough to a Konigs turrets to use them, and the Konig does have barrettes already and I'll have more from ordering the deck kit. there is a Superstructure listed in the ship kit but it isn't listed individually, but I'm assuming if I bought everything but the hull in a ship kit, they could work something out for me to buy everything minus the hull from the ship kit.
     
    Last edited: Jun 20, 2018
  12. Kevin P.

    Kevin P. Well-Known Member

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    It’s way easier to get hits on a konig vs a Nassau. Type type type
     
  13. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    You need freakin depth charges to sink a Nassau.
     
  14. thegeek

    thegeek Well-Known Member

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    Well not really, but you do have to disable Nassaus damage control. Konig would be a bit more forgiving to pump inattention.
     
  15. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    when I was out at GLAS, the Nassau class sank. It did take some hits, but it sank. wouldn't the Konig begin a bigger ship have more buoyancy, and be able to stay afloat longer than a nassau with the same amount of hits? yea it has some more area to hit, so it will take more, but if it can stay afloat a little longer and get some more hits in since it'll have dual sterns, i'd rather have that.

    not considering this is a first boat, which would be more effective theoretically on the water?
     
  16. SteveT44

    SteveT44 Well-Known Member

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    The Konig will be fine. The real point is to build what you want and get it on the water and have some fun. Don't worry about building the most competitive boat for your first effort. Save that for your second boat after you've learned the ropes.
     
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  17. WillCover

    WillCover -->> C T D <<--

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    This Nassau was thrown together to give you something to play with in a very short time...my time is stretched thin...you can't judge a boat class on one POS boat and a rookies first outing
     
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  18. WillCover

    WillCover -->> C T D <<--

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    I included you in a private GLAS conversation to keep you from getting to much off track from the local locos, Mark is the one to be talking to. I know there was a lot going on and going wrong at the battle but next one look at and take pictures of Marks stuff he know his sh@t!;)
     
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  19. wdodge0912

    wdodge0912 Well-Known Member

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    it wasn't bad at all I thought, it did take a lot of shots too. I figured that was because of my skill level (aka none)
    With my rookie skills i just feel that the konig is going to be more forgiving for all those hits that I'm going to be taking them anyways.

    plus I'll have 1 more gun with the konig, maybe I'll get some hits with it. I don't know if I did anything out on the water, but I did run out of ammo every time.
     
  20. NickMyers

    NickMyers Admin RCWC Staff

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    Hehehehe. Yeah, konigs got a little more freeboard, itll take a few seconds longer to sink once the pump is overwhelmed. Problem is with a bigger target you're going to take on more of those fine water entry portals.
     
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